Pink Belly Side Necked Turtle Care Information

Pink Belly Side Necked Turtles are available in different color morphs and are also available as the more traditional slider turtle. We recommend starting with them as babies to grow alongside them. Each has their own personalities and it tends to be easier to work with them as babies instead of fully grown.

Since these sliders are aquatic they will spend most of the time in the water. In the wild, they enjoy basking in the warm weather and stack on top of each other. They are easy to scare and the slightest movement or sound will make them react. This makes them “slide” off of each other which is why they are called a slider turtle. These amazing turtles have great personalities and like to be personable. It is not uncommon to see them swimming up close to you expecting to get fed.

6 things you might not know about your Pink Belly Side Necked Turtle

  • Pink Belly Side Necked Turtles can grow more than 16 inches in length. Most range from 5 to 10 inches. (13-26 cm)
  • Pink Belly Side Necked Turtles can live as long as 50 years. Most typically live between 20 to 30 years. That’s a long time! The lifespans are determined by their environment and quality of life.
  • Pink Belly Side Necked Turtles are one of the most popular turtles in the world. They originate from Australia and New Guinea.
  • Since these turtles are cold-blooded they use the water to help regulate their temperature
  • Contrary to some beliefs these turtles do not hibernate. They go through a process called Brumation. This means they become less active but still come to the surface for air. This usually happens when the temperatures go below 50 degrees.
  • As they grow and their skin develops you might see more orange and red markings.

How do I set up my turtle’s habitat?

Most prefer aquatic habitats but there are a few different setups you can consider.

You will need the following:

  • Provide 10 gallons of water for every inch of shell length. ( 5-6 inch shell = 50- 60 gallons of water.
  • Aquarium either glass or acrylic.
  • Space for your baby turtle to grow
  • Optional Feeding Tank
  • A tight fit cover/screen to place over the aquarium to stop any objects from falling and prevents any escape attempts.

Your habitat will need to include an entrance and exit so the turtle can easily move back and forth from the water and a flat surface for them to bask out of the water.

Different types of basking areas:

  • Driftwood
  • Cork Bark
  • Smooth Rocks
  • Stable Platforms ( You will need a flat surface for them to sit.)

We do not recommend using any plastic plants. This will help prevent them from eating the fake scenery.

Temperature & Humidity

Keeping the right temperature and humidity is very important to ensure your turtle’s life quality is second to none.

  • Air temperature needs to be 75 degrees in the aquarium. If the area’s temperature is lower you will need a room heater or an infrared light to help maintain temperature.
  • We recommend keeping the basking site next to your light. The site should be between 85 – 90 degrees Fahrenheit.
  • Water temperature should be between 75 – 85 degrees Fahrenheit
  • You will also need a thermometer submerged under water to make sure it’s the correct temp. Be mindful of the aquariums water quality. Just like any animal, they create waste which can create bacteria and other harmful substances to your turtle. You will need to change the water and make sure it’s the right temperature before introducing your turtle to it.
  • We suggest using a de-chlorinating agent to treat the water before you put it back in the aquarium. If you are feeding in the tank you will need to change the water once a week.
  • If you are using a feeding tank you should be changing the water twice a month. This includes being drained, cleaned and refilled. Having a separate tank to move the turtle in during cleanings is ideal.
  • There are many filers systems on the market. Depending on the aquarium we suggest going with an external canister, internal canister or an under-gravel filter system. To create more room in the tank go with an external filter. Air stones could help you move water and create a better filtration system.

Lighting for your Habitat

  • Make sure the stationary light you are using is placed outside of the aquarium or above the screen.
  • Your light should be placed 18 to 24 inches from the turtle.
  • Never place the light in a way where it can fall into the water. This prevents the turtle from burning or worse killing itself.
  • Using an ultraviolet light will help provide the turtle with a sense of its natural habitat.
  • We do not recommend filtering the light through glass or plastic
  • Do not place the aquarium in direct sunlight to prevent an increase in the overall temperature.
  • Anything plugged in should be used with a ground-fault interrupter and held outside and above the aquarium is possible. This will help reduce the risk of electrocuting the turtle.

What do I feed my turtle?

Keeping a well-balanced diet for your turtle is essential. We recommend using a variety of items to feed your turtle. In the wild, these turtles are carnivorous and believed to primarily feed on aquatic insects, crustaceans, and mollusks. We recommend using commercial turtle pellets to ensure they are receiving the right amount of nutrition. The diet should be balanced and include a variety of protein sources. You can feed them cuts of fish or any other type of seafood but avoid shrimp. It can be easier to utilize a feeding tank. They can be messy eaters. Is not uncommon for these types of turtles to enjoy earthworms or goldfish as treats. Fresh chlorine free water needs to be available for drinking at all times. You can set up a feeding schedule and most will need to be fed 3 to 4 times a week. Most of the time your turtle will need to be fed while they are in the water.